JOHN YANG: The rise of artificial intelligence# has touched virtually every industry,## disrupting long established workflows# and raising concerns about job losses.

Now the fashion world is reckoning with# these changes as AI takes hold there,## from customer service chatbots to virtual fitting# rooms and AI avatars starring in marketing## campaigns.

Ali Rogin explores this refashioning# of the industry and why it's raising alarms.

ALI ROGIN (voice-over): This August's Vogue# magazine may give us a glimpse into the future## of fashion.

This ad features a new model styled in# outfits from the clothing brand Guess.

She gazes## into the camera with a wide smile and bright eyes,# and none of it is real.

She was generated by AI.

VALENTINA GONZALEZ, Seraphine Valora:# Right now we're at a point where we## can create the same level of quality,# of beauty, of compositions with AI.## And you don't have to deal with a lot# of logistics, so why not utilize it?

ALI ROGIN (voice-over): Valentina Gonzalez Andreaa# Petrescu are the co-founders of Seraphine Valora,## the AI modeling agency behind the# ad that's garnered so much att.

ANDREAA PETRESCU, Seraphine Valora:# We believe that AI is the future of## fashion in the sense of supplementing# and offering a new avenue of marketing.

ALI ROGIN (voice-over): Some have called for# a boycott of Vogue for giving it a platform.## But this ad wasn't the first to use AI models.# In March, fashion brand H and M experimented## with a new marketing strategy by digitally# cloning actual models with their consent.

SARA ZIFF, Model Alliance: This# appeared to be almost more of a## campaign for using AI generated# models than a clothing campaign.

ALI ROGIN (voice-over): Sarah Ziff is a# former model who founded the Model Alliance,## an advocacy group for workers in the# industry.

She recalls how just two years ago,## the brand Levi's was under fire for planning# to promote diversity by using AI models.

SARA ZIFF: It's important that companies# actually celebrate diverse people, not just## sort of showcase an avatar who is diverse.

ALI ROGIN (voice-over): For many brands, AI# models are viewed as a cost saving alternative## to elaborate photo shoots.

Industry insiders# warned that would take away many traditional## jobs, while proponents of AI argue that# they're just creating different jobs.

VALENTINA GONZALEZ: We open a# new opportunity for a different,## completely different type of creatives# to expose their work to the biggest## fashion magazines.

And that's the# conversation we should be having.

ALI ROGIN: To continue that conversation,## I'm joined by Sinead Bovell, a former# model turned tech entrepreneur .. studies AI's impact on society.

She's also# the founder of Waye, a tech education company.

Sinead, thank you so much for being# here.

You predicted this moment that## we are now in back in 2020.

You wrote an# op ed about it in ironically in Vogue.## Is this a moment, a turning point in the# use of AI within the fashion industry?

SINEAD BOVELL, WAYE Founder: Why I think it# is a turning point is because I and I think## many people kind of look to Vogue in some# ways as like Supreme Court of Fashion.

So## by AI appearing in one of their magazines, one# of the most sought after exclusive magazines,## it's almost like it's the industry stamp# of approval on the supplier side in a way## that AI is here to stay and acceptable# at the highest ranking order of fashion.

ALI ROGIN: And this Guess ad has elicited# strong opinions, a lot of controversy,## particularly when it comes to beauty standards# and what it means for reshaping the standards## that people look to.

The co-founders behind this# ad touched on this point.

Here's what they said.

ANDREAA PETRESCU: I would argue that it's# actually more freeing for a woman to know## that these images are made with AI and that they# are don't exist and that they're just a digital## created through a digital medium.

And# so the woman in the pictures actually## didn't perhaps starve for herself.# Or I believe it's maybe more freeing## because you actually don't compare# with something that doesn't exist.

SINEAD BOVELL: So that's really interesting# perspective.

I agree that looking at an AI## generated figure, we might start to# say, well, because this isn't real,## I don't even see the value in comparing# myself to it.

But the problem is in some## ways AI has crossed over that uncanny valley# where we can understand that it's not real.

So the only way that perspective# is going to work is if it's clearly## identified that the figure you're looking# at is AI generated without that labeling,## which there is no kind of industry rule# that has to happen, we really have no idea.

And that's still a pretty broad# assumption.

Because they're so## perfect and because they're AI# people won't compare themselves## to it.

I think we would have to leave that# question to the Department of Psychology.

ALI ROGIN: What is the obligation, in your mind,# that fashion companies, AI companies have to## disclose the use of these models?

And where does# that conversation stand right now in the industry?

SINEAD BOVELL: In some ways it could be argued# that there is a lot of editing that happens in## photoshoots anyways, and that transparency# has never been declared for viewers.

In## the last couple of years, people have started to# demand more natural, more realistic photography.

But when it comes to AI, if were to continue# that line of this kind of blurry, how much## is real?

How much was edited?

But this actually# isn't a question that's even unique to fashion,## right?

We're all trying to grapple# with how do we understand what is## real and what is not in an AI first# world?

And it just so happens that## this is also going to apply to an# industry like fashion and shopping.

ALI ROGIN: When we talk about fashion,# we're talking about an industry that's## never been known as being great on# representation in terms of body size,## racial diversity.

So how does# the introduction of AI into this## conversation change the debate over# representation in the modeling world?

SINEAD BOVELL: Models themselves have worked# really hard to build an industry in the last## couple of years that is more reflective of the# breadth and depth of diversity we see in society.## And so what happens to the gains from those actual# models who are now kind of kicked off the payroll?

And then the second is there's kind# of unique areas for exploitation to## occur here.

So a company could just# generate the illusion of diversity## and create characters from a community that# perhaps nobody in that fashion company or## in that brand has anybody on the play# role that represents that community.

So you're profiting off of a community# that you're speaking on behalf of.

And## maybe that community would have not worked# with that brand.

So you get to kind of## take control over where communities appear in# advertising, which I think could be problematic.

And then the second area for exploitation is# misrepresentation, right?

So you could create an## identity of, say, an AI generated black woman# that misrepresents that community.

So there## are all of these kind of strange areas, and# I call it digital cultural appropriation,## where it's not illegal, right?

Cultural# appropriation is of course not illegal,## but we as a society decided this probably# isn't a good thing.

Let's draw a line here.

And it doesn't mean all AI characters have to# represent the exact people in the companies.

No,## that's kind of ridiculous.

But we do have# to figure out what are the new lines of## representation in an era when you can generate# identities using artificial intelligence.

ALI ROGIN: Wow, such interesting questions.# Sinead Bovell, thank you so much.

SINEAD BOVELL: Thanks for having me.